Facebook Twitter YouTube YouTube RSS

Building the Pocher KM76 1/8 scale BUGATTI engine only english


By Paul Koo  
Building the Pocher KM76 1/8 scale BUGATTI engine only english - 1/8 Scale Cars

Read More

Building the Pocher KM76 1/8 scale BUGATTI engine

Cars

12D.jpg (68694 bytes)

Building the Pocher KM76 1/8 scale Bugatti engine

by Paul Koo © Modeler Site

Legal Notice

No material from Modeler Site any Web site owned, operated, licensed, or controlled by Mario Covalski & Associated may be copied, reproduced, republished, uploaded, posted, transmitted, or distributed in any way, except that you may download one copy of the materials on any single computer for your personal, non-commercial home use only, provided you keep intact all copyright and other proprietary notices. Modification of the materials or use of the materials for any other purpose is a violation of Mario Covalski & Associated's copyright and other proprietary rights.

Read More here > Legal notice


Since the release of my first CD-ROM, The Pocher Mercedes Step-by-step supplemental building instruction, I have been very pleased with the popularity and appreciation it has received on Ebay. The response has prompted me to produce a second CD-ROM, building the Pocher Bugatti 50T, a comprehensive step-by-step supplemental instruction with extensive building photos. The article presented here is just the engine section of this upcoming CD-ROM. I hope it will be helpful to modeler building the Pocher KM76 Bugatti 50T engine kit. As with the first CD-ROM, this one will mainly concentrate on the proper assembly of the model and NOT so much on customization. As many people know, Pocher kits are very complicated and consists of THOUSANDS of parts. The main focus of the supplemental instruction is to point out all the places where parts are likely to break, show the correct sequence of assembly to prevent dead corners, clarify confusing drawings, and alert the modeler to the mistakes in the assembly manual. All directions mentioned will be in reference to the engine (left/right/front /rear).


Note on screws

VERY IMPORTANT!!! The screws provided in the kit are made of a very soft metal that will BREAK easily. Do not force the screws into the holes. Always turn the screw slowly. To get a feel on how much force it takes to break a screw, I would suggest taking a screw (there are extras in the kit) and put it in a vise, turn the screw with a screwdriver until the screw breaks.

If this is your first Pocher kit, it is very important that you practice this so you know how much force it takes to break a screw. Also, the deeper the screw hole, the higher the risk of breaking the screw. A broken screw stuck inside the hole is a frustrating matter.


Install screws by heat

This method will guarantee you won't break any screws. On tight fitting holes, screw in partially about half way, and then lightly push on the screw with a small soldering iron. Once the heat transfers to the screw (only takes a few seconds), the screw will melt a thin layer of plastic and slide into the hole. This "Melting Method" is very useful and will save you the frustration of broken screws.

This is NOT a permanent method of assembly. The screw can still be removed easily without any plastic sticking to it. It can also be further tightened without risk of breaking the screw.


Test fitting the parts

Unlike Tamiya, Pocher kits have poor parts fit. All plastic pieces must be trimmed, sanded, shaped, and puttied if necessary, for a good fit. Always check the part fit and see where the interference is and sand down that area. For most of the parts, the "holes" will be too small and the pins will be too large. Do not force the parts together or they will BREAK. The holes need to be enlarged or the pins trimmed down for a good fit. It is better to trim until the fit is loose, and then use glue, instead of forcing the parts together and breaking them. Don't let the poor parts fit discourage you. Once cleaned up and assembled right, Pocher kits build up to museum quality models.

Most of the "metal to plastic" parts fit are very tight. Do not force the metal fittings into the plastic holes. Forcing the parts in will crack the plastic part. Slightly enlarge the hole in the plastic with a Dremel grinding tip.


Painting

For a great looking model, all plastic parts should be primed and painted. Since most parts are quite large, spray paint or airbrush should be used most of the time so there are no brush lines. Only small details should be painted with brush. The plastic on Pocher kits does not accept paint evenly. Therefore, all large parts must be primed before painting.

 

For each step that involves different color parts, test fit the parts first, then disassemble for painting, and then reassemble. The reason it needs to be done this way is because the plastic parts will require trimming and a lot of handling. Painting the parts in advance will cause you to trim away painted area or leave finger marks in the paint. Some group of parts that are the same color can be fitted, assembled, and painted as a single part (i.e. supercharger).

 

To be technically correct, the engine should be painted aluminum or silver. The Bugatti engine is not very remarkable on the outside. Various parts can be painted in different metallic shades, such as engine block, engine heads, the side covers, the front timing case, and so on.


Step by step building tips

Engine

General note

Unlike the other Pocher classic cars where the internal engine details are hidden, the Bugatti engine can be assembled as is, or it can be "built to show". The left engine head slides into place and has nothing attached to it (step 11). It can be removed easily to show the pistons and valves in action. The valve cover also snaps into place without glue. There are two panels on the engine that cover up openings (steps 6,11). These panels can be substituted with clear panels or do a "Cut-away" to show the crankcase. If you are building the engine only kit, these panels can be removed to show the internal details. Red LED's can be wired inside the crankcase to light it up. Plan in advance how much internal detail you want to show.

 

The Bugatti engine is somewhat symmetrical. Sometimes it's easy to get the front side mixed up with the rear side. Whenever possible, the direction will be stated. One way to remember is that the rear side has the molded "Y" pipe. The rear side of the large crankcase tub has the circular ridge for attaching the transmission.

 

The black plastic parts are very tough. However, the gray plastic parts are very soft. With the gray plastic parts, breaking the screws is not the main concern. But instead, breaking the plastic is the main problem. Many of the holes have very thin plastic around them. Pressure on the parts can easily cause the plastic to crack. All tight holes must be carefully enlarged with a drill or Dremel grinding bit to prevent cracking the plastic.


(STEP 1) Pistons

The wrist pins 76587-18-A will require some force to be pushed into place.

The piston rings have sharp ends that may scratch the plastic pistons. The best way to prevent scratching is to use a Dremel grinding bit to file away the sharp inside corners of the open ends. Insert the open end into the slot first, and then force the rest of the ring in.

1C.jpg (45017 bytes)

Make sure the piston rings are bent correctly so that it will fit tightly on the piston and the two ends meet. (see photo of one ring bent correctly and another incorrectly.)

All the piston rings must fit tightly on the piston so that the piston can slide easily inside the cylinder sleeve. Test fit each finished piston into the aluminum cylinder sleeve 76119-603-A (Step 6). If the rings are too large and have a loose fit, they will cause binding. Fix the larger rings by cutting a small amount off the ends and re-bending them.

1B.jpg (30246 bytes)


This tutorial is offered in PDF format to be read or printed using Acrobat reader, contact our webmaster > Here

Includes more than 40 pics, here we show only the text pages.

 

Esta Nota es ofrecida en formato PDF, el cual puede ser leído o impreso usando el Acrobat reader, contacte a nuestro webmaster > Aquí

Incluye más de 40 imágenes, aquí solo mostramos las paginas de texto.


 

Support us ordering our notes in PDF > Here

Apóyenos ordenando nuestras notas en PDF > Aquí


Comment in Facebook



MODELERSITE.COM takes no responsibility and assumes no liability for any content posted by users or any third party and they will be liable for any damages of any kind, including, but not limited to direct, indirect, incidental, punitive, and consequential damages.


Subscribe our Newsletter


LATEST NEWS


Editorials

Editorial

The best of 2018 Over the end of the year, we are offering a preview of the articles we were proud to have during 2018. Enjoy them and happy new year.




Showcases

By Modeler Site

Problems downloading files

By Mario Covalski

Building the RC Leopard 2A4 1/16 scale A couple of years ago, I discover  www.Ludwigs-Hobby-Seite.de, a web site where Christian Ludwig offers his kits mostly made of  plastic, cut with the CNC technology. So, I found a kit to convert a Heng Long 2A6 to the 2A4, that is to say a previous version.

By Mario Covalski

Converting the Trumpeter T-72 MBT to RC 1/16 scale To improve the Heng Long T-90 I read some books and gathered information/photos from the web. This little research made me know more about these compact Russian tanks T-72/T-90, and so it grew my interest in them. So I bought the 1/16 T-72 Trumpeter kit. This kit was designed not only for static but also for RC. The static version has some extra details and modifications, reminds me the, T-34 from WSN, a brand with which Trumpeter sold the T-34 RC. The philosophy of the T-72 is the same, I still believe that the T-34 gearbox with its motors, would fit in the hull. Perfectly.  

By Mario Covalski

Building and improving the Italeri / Protar Alfa Romeo 179 1980 1/12 scale In May 2001 I wrote a brief preview on the Protar's 1/12 Alfa Romeo 179. This wonderful Formula One was one of the few cars in modern F1 history which chassis and engine were the same brand. Is this model really difficult? This is the key question for this model, and the answer is NO. If it were a Tamiya model, that is to say the same matrix but injected with Tamiya plastic and having the quality control of this huge Japanese company, I would say that this is one of the most delicious models I have ever built. Unfortunately, it has some flaws, mainly due to its poor quality than to the work of the Protar craftsmen.

By Mario Covalski

Tamiya Caterhams, a step by step guide for novices 1/12 scale The first Catherham from Tamiya coming to my hands at the end of 1994, was the “Cycle Fender Special” (10202), since the “Super Seven BDR was out of stock, and it was impossible for me to get it from the stores I used to buy kits. From that moment on, my affair with which, I think is the best scale car kit ever produced, began. And here my comment: probably, you have seen better detailed kits, or even superb models limited editions.

By Rick & Jannine Bennett

Learning to paint figures step by step

By Mario Covalski

Building 1/12 F1 resin model kits: A step by step guide. MG models Ferrari F2002 and F2003- GA This article aims at offering an illustrated guide, with pictures, explaining step by step the tasks that should be done, how to and the reasons, it’s basically a visual guide, based on the construction of two MG models: the 2002 Ferrari and the 2003- GA.

By Jose Antonio Solbes

How to paint with lacquers

By Mario Covalski

Building the IDF M50 radio controled Sherman 1/16 scale Building the M50 in 1/16 scale is a project I have had in mind for many years, and after the M51s (from the article published in May 2012) I felt the need to continue with this one. In this article, I’ll share with the reader my experience in building the M50 RC 1/16 from a Tamiya M4 -105mm with HVSS suspension.

By Mario Covalski

Building the Pocher Lamborghini Huracan, step by step, painting guide and tips. 1/8 scale These are the new times of Pocher, hand in hand with Hornby, the brand that offer models which represent high technology subjects as Lamborghini cars and Ducati motorcycles. Manufactured by Ixo, the Chinese company, they are the fashion of the time, huge 1/8 scale cars with metal body and chassis, already painted (luckily!). They compete with Amalgam and other brands with less expectations but to fit any budget and if you have some experience as model builder, the result will be acceptable and even excellent. The aim of this tutorial is to share the step by step in the Lamborghini Huracán construction, the last Pocher issue explaining the work achieved so that it may be useful for less experienced modelers and collectors.

By Claudio Kalicinski

Scratchbuilding the Nieuport 6H, 1/48 scale I decided to scratchbuild this plane after seeing the scale drawings by Mike Fletcher in his web site: The Nieuport Pages. I sent an E-mail to him and he kindly sent me pictures and larger resolution scale drawings. Once I enlarged the plans to 1/48, I noticed how big the plane was....

By Ricardo Gonzalez

Building and customizing the Tamiya Ducati Panigale S 1/12 scale The Ducatti Panigale is to my liking one of the most spectacular motorcycles of the past decade. Thanks to Tamiya we can have a model of it, both were the reasons why I decided to build it trying to get the most detailed model I could , taking advantage of the fact that as it was a mass production model, it would be possible for me to get a lot of references. Not only I built and superdetailed the model, but also made a slightly and own customized version, a real Panigale, as I would like to have. The aim of this article, is to show with pictures and their comments the work accomplished as a guide and to give ideas of the details that can be added or showing in some cases how to do the different tasks.

By Mario Covalski

Improving the Dragon Kubelwagen 1/6 scale # 75003 Action figure collecting is one of the most popular hobbies in the world. Figures made out of different plastic materials based on TV sci-fi series, sci-fi movies (for instance GI Joe action figures) and facts from real life such as the representation of different war scenarios. Soldier figures are commonly made in 1/6 scale, they’re represented with military uniforms made from genuine fabric and the weapons that real soldiers use to have, vehicles included.

By Gary Wickham

Advanced techniques: Building the P-51D Mustang "Lt Col John Myers" Petie 3rd Dragon 1/32 scale The infamous Dragon P-51D in 1/32. This model was started before Tamiya announced their kit, and I have to admit that during this build I did consider scrapping it more than once. In the end, I am very glad I did not. Despite the challenges and limitations of this kit, I am very happy (and proud) of the end result.

By Mario Covalski

Realistic wire wheels for 1/12 scale motorcycles One of the biggest challenges for a modeler who builds motorcycles in 1/12 scale, is to modify a wire wheel and make it look realistic; specially without having to buy an aftermarket kit. Anyway, there are no kits for this kind of modification (except for one of the Acu-stion for the Tamiya XV1600 kit), so it's not possible to get one. So any modeler attempting to do this task must rely in his/her ability in order, to get a good result.

By Denis R.S.Bomfim

Building rusted cars - VW 1966 - 1/24 scale It all started with a joke, I built a rusted Mustang GT 350 to make a gift to a friend who only builds Mustangs. It was at a modelers meeting when he received a homage and the joke consisted of letting him know the arduous remodeling and restoration work he would have with this rusted Mustang. I took advantage of my work and presented it in a contest that took place in Campinas city. Finally, the model was “best of the show” and they called me mad for giving a winning model. My answer was.... I will have to make another rusted model for me.

By Mario Covalski

Improving the Dragon Schwimmwagen - 1/6 scale #75013 Being a car fan, everything that has wheels attracts my attention, nevertheless, the Kubelwagen’s amphibious sibling, went unnoticed by me for quite a long time. After building the 1/6 Dragon Kubel, I was pretty excited with the Schwimmwagen, and the quality of the kit and improvements Dragon introduced a couple of years after the Kubel release, really surprised me. This article aims at offering my view about this kit construction, adding some improvements I considered necessary so as to make a worthy scale model.