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Building the Bandai Gundam MS-06 F ZAKU II 1/100 scale


By David Guardia  

El universo gundam. Enorme en personajes, series de animación, libros, cómics, etc. Basado en una serie animada, en la que los humanos están en guerra y utilizan robots de combate, aporta al modelismo el 90% de las maquetas vendidas. Con gran variedad de escalas, ésta, la 1/100, es posiblemente las más “manejable”. Con apenas 14 cm de alto, estos modelos se convierten en proyectos rápidos.


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Building the Bandai Gundam MS-06 F ZAKU II 1/100 scale

by David Guardia © Modeler Site

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El universo gundam. Enorme en personajes, series de animación, libros, cómics, etc. Basado en una serie animada, en la que los humanos están en guerra y utilizan robots de combate, aporta al modelismo el 90% de las maquetas vendidas. Con gran variedad de escalas, ésta, la 1/100, es posiblemente las más “manejable”. Con apenas 14 cm de alto, estos modelos se convierten en proyectos rápidos.

 


Acostumbrado a saltar entre carros, aviones y sci fi, este tipo de maquetas me ayuda a descansar de algún proyecto largo. La maqueta de Bandai, es de esas que puedes montar sin gota de pegamento. De hecho, ni siquiera tienes que pintarla si no quieres.

 La calidad es fantástica. Y salvo un par de uniones en las piernas, apenas hay que lijar o usar masilla, y es totalmente articulable, lo que permite infinidad de posturas.


Construcción

Montar el gundam, apenas nos lleva un par de ratos. Cortar, lijar las pocas marcas de los bebederos y unir mediante presión, es algo a lo que no estamos acostumbrados y se hace “raro” a la vez que divertido.
 

 

Tanto en el casco como en el escudo, he realizado unos daños de impacto de algún tipo de láser utilizando un alfiler calentado con un mechero. En el escudo con la punta, y en el casco con la cabeza del mismo alfiler.

 

 

Todas las piezas reciben una imprimación negra de Citadel. A la vez que conseguimos un excelente agarre para la pintura, obtenemos una base oscura para las sombras de los colores que después vamos a aerografiar.
 

 

La pintura base, tanto de las partes moradas, las gris oscuro y las blancas, están “tiradas” con aerógrafo de una forma cenital.

Las moradas, pintadas con X16 de Tamiya e iluminando con éste mismo color y blanco.
 


Con “rubber black” primero y con X20 después, ambos de Tamiya, he pintado las zonas piezas de color oscuro. Con ayuda de un trozo de cinta, me ayudo a remarcar algunas aristas.
 


Con blanco teñido con unas gotas de X20 aerografío desde arriba, al igual que con el resto de colores. De esta forma, aparecen las zonas de sombras. Por eso la imprimación en negro. Añadir unas gotas de X20, me permite después utilizar un blanco puro para desgastes y detalles.
 


La protección del hombro, pintada con XF4 de tamiya, aporta un punto extra de atención a la vista. Una vez pintadas todas las piezas, he montado todo para ver el conjunto. Recordad que no hace falta pegamento, lo que nos permite poner y quitar los conjuntos a nuestro gusto y necesidad.
 


Este Gundam, porta tres armas diferentes. Un bazooka, un rifle láser y un hacha. Ésta última, salvo que se coloque en las manos, apenas se deja ver alojada en su sitio en el cinturón.

Las tres están pintadas de la misma forma. Una base en plata, con metálico plata de AK, y encima, sin llegar a tapar, con XF 85 de tamiya. Posteriormente, con diferentes tratamientos de ensuciado, daremos diferentes acabados.
 


El proceso de envejecido comienza con los desconchones superficiales. Para las partes blancas, he utilizado un gris claro. Podéis observar, como un curioso efecto óptico, hace que parezcan dos grises diferentes al pintar sobre las zonas claras y oscuras con el mismo.
 


Con ayuda de una esponja, comienzo a añadir desconchados oxidados. No conviene abusar de éste método que además, provoca una adicción que termina por arruinar los trabajos..
 


De la misma forma que las partes blancas, se hace en las piezas moradas y grises. Utilizando rosa para las primeras y gris para éstas últimas. He salpicado pintura con ayuda de un palillo para imitar pequeños impactos. Es una forma fácil y rápida de imitarlos.

Durante todo el proceso he intentado tener en cuenta la escala del modelo. A escala real, tendría unos 11 metros de altura, aunque bien es cierto, que sin nada con lo que compararlo, podría pasar por cualquier escala.
 


Las pocas líneas que tiene, se perfilan con un lavado oscuro.
 


El weathering lo empiezo simulando los trazos de suciedad arrastrada por el agua. Para este propósito, me sirvo de la referencia de AK que imita las marcas de salitre en barcos. Sólo hay que hacer unas marcas verticales con un pincel fino y fundirlo hacia abajo con otro humedecido en white spirit. Podemos repetir el proceso para intensificar el efecto.
 

 

Allí donde haya una articulación simulo fugas de aceite y grasa.
 


Los escurridos de óxido son muy vistosos y aportan la sensación de uso. He usado óleos naranja y marrones. Algunos de las marcas, lo hago en dos veces ganando en variedad cromática.
 


Los productos de AK son perfectos para simular suciedad, tanto en trazos verticales como acumulaciones. Combinados con los óleos ganamos en colorido.
 


Unos toques de óleo morado fundido, para tratar de imitar reflejos.
 


Los impactos en el casco y escudo, reciben una base de negro con aerógrafo y un posterior lavado con un lavado óxido. Unos pigmentos rojizos en polvo y un poco de grafito en los bordes y ya parecen dos auténticas marcas de algún tipo de láser.
 


Para la calavera, he utilizado una plantilla e Alexenmodels.

He degradado desde el amarillo hasta el rojo oscuro de abajo hacia arriba.
 


El número “4” está pintado con el número de serie de una plantilla que tenía por ahí y que me pareció apropiado.
 


En la hombrera, los desconchones están realizados con un color siena para los oscuros y amarillo para los claros. El pincel y la esponja estan presentes también aquí.

Para terminar, más polvo color óxido.
 


El rifle láser, también se ensucia con los mismos productos. Se depositan por zonas y trabajan con un pincel húmedo para difuminar y evitar cortes bruscos. Un toque de esmalte rojo brillante en la mira del rifle simula la lente.
 


Numerosas manchas se depositan por aquí y allá, buscando siempre la sutileza del efecto.
 


Conforme avanzo el tratamiento, voy viendo donde le pide un escurrido, algún desconchón más, mancha de aceite, etc….
 


Las conducciones hidráulicas, pintadas con el XF 85 de tamiya, son un buen punto para colocar fugas.
 

 

El porta munición de la bazooka se pintó a la vez que ésta, con el mismo XF 85 y con unas luces de X20. A la punta del “obús”, le he dado directamente con un rotulador permanente color plata de la marca Edding.
 


Algunos lavados color óxido se depositan en el bazooka, y tubos hidráulicos para destacar detalles.
 


La maqueta trae una “lenteja” rojo brillante a modo de pegatina para simular el ojo o cámara de visión del gundam.. Después de un intento de pintarla por mi mismo, el efecto no me gustó, y preferí dejarla sin ella, y simplemente le di una luz azul muy claro en el medio del sitio donde iría esta lente.
 


Gallery

 


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