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The model represented is Tamiya’s 1/12 scale. It was first released in 1971 and reissued several years ago. As it has been said many times, the early large scale Tamiya kits are average by today’s standards but nothing short of amazing when you consider that they have been around for thirty years. Judging from the style of the wheels, this car seems to most closely resemble the cars raced during 1970.
As always before starting the assembly of such important model, it’s better to study carefully the instructions. In the case of this model, this is even more valid since we are speaking about something that was designed and thought to be built since over 44 years ago. After a careful consideration, I realized that it’s possible to build this model in an easier way than the one proposed by the manufacturer many years ago.
As in the last 1/12 reissues, Tamiya provide an excellent PE as well as extra instructions to make the assembly of these metal parts.
Though for several of these last kits, the PE doesn’t mean a lot, in the case of this 312B is recommendable to use these parts.
Actually, some parts for the suspension and engine attachment may seem to be unnecessary. Perhaps is to improve the quality of details, but are of great importance at the time of final adjustments.
With high motivation, time to spend on it, and the invaluable help of available pictures on the net and old Modelersite articles, I was capable of correcting several errors and omissions from Tamiya.
Improving the Ferrari 312B Tamiya 1/12
Building the Ferrari 312 B2 from 1972 - from a Protar kit 1/12 scale
Building the Protar Ferrari 312 B2 1971 - 1/12 scale
This article aims at sharing my model construction which was built out of the box adding a personal touch, removing the chrome from plastic parts that look so unreal, and some details that advanced modelers will be able to reproduce.
And as you know sometimes, good pictures speak more than words, I invite you to follow this construction starting with the photos I took during the process.
My aim was simple, getting, that once the body was painted and clearcoated, the rivets were still clearly visible and not flooded by the painting coat and varnish. I started cutting all the rivets heads from the body, using a X-Acto rounded blade. After the cut, there is a mark where every rivet is (see the image), which would be a useful reference to make the holes that would house the new rivets.
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Includes more than 62 pics, here we show only the text pages.
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