Facebook Twitter YouTube YouTube RSS

Building a vacuform model 1/48 Toms Modelworks Sopwith 1 ½ Strutter


By Claudio Kalicinski  

The model represents a Sopwith Strutter built by Ruston, Proctor & Co. Ltd in 1917 and delivered to the RFC (Royal Flying Corps) on August 7th 1917. With a Clerget 9z 110hp powerplant was sent with the 43 Squadron to the Lozinghem aerodrome at Flanders, Belgium, for reconnaissance missions and ground attack (as the tactical marking, the triangle, indicates). After seeing service in Belgium, it returned to England on September 29th 1918. My goal when writing this article, is sharing with you my experiences in building a vacuform model and encouraging others to give one a try. Though many of us (modelers) have one or two vacuform among our kits to build, most seem to be reluctant to build those kits, in spite of the fact that they’re really good, comprising metal, etched and resin parts plus a good decal sheet.


Read More

El Sopwith 1 1/2 Strutter de Toms Modelworks English BODY {display:none}

Airplanes

Building a vacuform model 1/48 Toms Modelworks Sopwith 1 ½ Strutter

by Claudio Kalicinski © 2007 Modeler Site

Legal Notice

No material from Modeler Site any Web site owned, operated, licensed, or controlled by Damian Covalski may be copied, reproduced, republished, uploaded, posted, transmitted, or distributed in any way, except that you may download one copy of the materials on any single computer for your personal, non-commercial home use only, provided you keep intact all copyright and other proprietary notices. Modification of the materials or use of the materials for any other purpose is a violation of Damian Covalski's copyright and other proprietary rights.

Read More here > Legal notice


The model represents a Sopwith Strutter built by Ruston, Proctor & Co. Ltd in 1917 and delivered to the RFC (Royal Flying Corps) on August 7th 1917. With a Clerget 9z 110hp powerplant was sent with the 43 Squadron to the Lozinghem aerodrome at Flanders, Belgium, for reconnaissance missions and ground attack (as the tactical marking, the triangle, indicates). After seeing service in Belgium, it returned to England on September 29th 1918.

 


My goal when writing this article, is sharing with you my experiences in building a vacuform model and encouraging others to give one a try. Though many of us (modelers) have one or two vacuform among our kits to build, most seem to be reluctant to build those kits, in spite of the fact that they’re really good, comprising metal, etched and resin parts plus a good decal sheet.

Before starting any construction, I use to gather all the available information about the model I’m going to build. This is necessary for the vacumforms too, besides of a couple of scale drawings which will be a must due to the nature of this work, since it’ll be necessary to scratchbuild a great number of parts, so, these drawings will be useful at the time of checking the symmetry and position of those parts.

As main reference, I recommend two books of Albatros Publications editorial: Windsock Datafile #34, which contains information about the Strutters two- seat fighter variants and the Windsock #80 about single-seat fighters. As I built a two seat fighter version, my main reference source was the first one.


The kit

This Tom’s Modelworks vacuform kit comprises the fuselage, wings, rudder, landing gear legs and a few metal parts: cowling, engine, landing gear, propeller, seat, guns and gun mounting, but I only used some parts of the landing gear.

As for the size and shape, it matches quite well to the plans of the Datafile 28, though it needed several corrections, mainly, in the wing chord.

Another weak point of this kit, is that doesn’t supply decals and nearly no assembly instructions.

As it is such a basic kit, I tried to get all the parts available around the market which saved me a lot of time. These parts were the engine, a Clerget from Copper State, the forward firing Vickers from the same brand, the Eduard PE seatbelts and the gunner’s .303 Lewis gun from Fotocut.

Anyway, I had to scratchbuild a great number of parts such as: the propeller, the tail skid, the fuel pump’s wind generator, the fuselage and wing struts, the control panel together with all the interior and cowling.


Assembly

Preparing the parts

The biggest difference between vacform modeling and building a conventional injection-moulded kit is the preparation of parts. The modeler is left with the task of cutting the parts off the sheet plastic and cleaning them up for assembly.

 

 

But, don’t be afraid, it’s not so complicated, just be careful and follow this set sequence: First, with the help of scissors, cut the parts leaving 3 or 4 mm excess plastic around each part.

 

 

Then, take your fine marker or pencil and draw around the outline of all the parts.

 

Next, chose an even surface (in my case, the glass of my desk) to adhere fine grit sandpaper with adhesive tape.

 

 

You will be left with a part that has a line around its edges (that you marked earlier), This line indicates the limit of sanding. Don’t sand above this line. Once this procedure has been followed with each plastic part, the kit can be assembled like and injection one.


Fuselage

As you can appreciate in the pictures, the fuselage has several problems, the most important is the plastic thinness which caused that some parts showed punctures under the minimum pressure.

I decided to cyano glue 0,3mm plasticard to the interior in order to add more resistance.

 

 

After reinforcing the fuselage, I went on detailing the interior. The interior wood frame was simulated with thin plasticard strips of different thickness.

 

 

The seat supplied with the kit was replaced with a new one I scratchbuilt from platicard to which Eduard PE seatbelts(48303) were added.

 

 

There was not a conventional seat for the gunner, just a folding stool that allowed an easier operation of his machine gun. I made it from scratch with 2,5 mm plasticard.

 

 

The gunner’ position didn’t include a lot more, but to match the real thing, I added several details to the cockpit such as the control column, throttle and the instruments panel which was made out of plasticard and acetate. I used the PE set from Reheat for the instruments, and the instrument faces were printed in Experts Choice decal paper. These faces are, indeed, pictures of the original instruments which were reduced and redrawn with the help of Corel Draw.

Another problem of the fuselage, is how to represent the internal structure of the fuselage exterior. Though the “squared” structure is correct, the representation of the transverse struts located next to the squared structure, is not. The pictures I have, show smooth surface, this is why the struts had to be sanded.

Once the interior was detailed and the exterior problems were solved, the fuselage was closed. Then, I had to rebuild the upper fuselage, not only the fabric covering but also the wood section (this only could be accomplished with the fuselage joined). I redrew the first one to give later its typical shape with the help of a watchmaker’s file and sand while the wood was simulated covering the existent frame with very thin sheets of plasticard, getting with that method the “step” effect between fabric covering and the wood, visible in the reference pictures.

 

 

Then, I made the fuel and oil filler holes. Next, I placed the footstep on the fuselage side using the etched part from the Fotocut set.

 

 

I also used another PE set from the same brand to represent the “stitching” on the right fuselage side.

The following step was to build the tail plane incidence mechanism using hypodermic needles and stretched sprue.

 


Engine, cowling and propeller

As I said before, I replaced the engine with the one from Copper State which was not troublesome, it was just built, painted, and then glued to the fuselage

 

 

The difficult task was with the cowling, since it had to be vacuformed (with the help of a home-made vacu- form machine) to be replaced with the coarse metal one provided with the kit (apart from the fact that the engine didn’t fit inside the cowling ).

 

 

I made the vent holes to the vacuformed cowling and added a section located on the lower section made from a spare metal section.

As for the propeller, it didn’t match the real thing at all, I decided to “carve” it myself. I used the Windstock Datafile 34 scale drawings as guide; cut the propeller front view and glued it to a piece of 0,4mm plasticard, then was cut around and sanded the blades to shape.

It was easier than the expected. The propeller was painted wood color with grey medium blade tips. In the real thing, these parts were bronze protections painted grey. Finally, I used etched hub for the propeller.

The carburettor air intakes were represented with two sections of hypodermic needle of 1,5 mm diameter placed at both sides of the fuselage.

 


Wings and struts

The wings have a good fabric covering however the wing cord is too short, so, I had to add a 1,5 mm strip to the trailing edge. I also built and added the flaps which were placed on the lower wing root and in drooped position

 

Another thing I added, was the steel strip of 1,5mm thickness which was placed inside the wings to prevent them from bending due to their own weight.

I’m very sorry for not doing the same with the tail elevator, since it started to bend downwards. As you can imagine, the wings with the steel rods inside are quite heavy, this meant a new problem. How to hold the upper wing? After trying several methods, I decided to build the fuselage struts with flattened hypodermic needles to solve this problem.

I’ll explain you the way to do that: Hypodermic needles, as you know, comes in different lengths and diameters, so they can adapt to different sizes of struts. First you take an hypodermic needle of the proper size, the most important is to consider the diameter since it will determine the size of the strut. You should always use longer needles so as to have more material to work with. Then, you’ll have to heat the needle close to its plastic support, which will be removed, leaving only the steel tube. This tube will be heated up to getting it red-hot and then, cooled with cold water, this procedure will have to be repeated a couple of times. Our aim is to get a softened needle otherwise it would break. Then, it is flattened by giving slight taps (with the help of a hammer and a small anvil), and being careful not to leave marks on the steel. Once this needle is flattened, it bends and cut easily to give the “W” shape of the Strutter fuselage struts. Then, I applied red putty for cars and were sanded to get an “aerodynamic” shape

 

 

The wing struts were built using the Aeroclub set of plastic struts with aerodynamic shape (CON001). I could make them from plastic, since the weight of the wing was supported by the fuselage struts built with the needles.
 


Landing gear

The landing gear was perhaps the only part of the model in which I used nearly all the metal parts provided with the kit. Nevertheless, I replaced the axle with one scratchbuilt from plasticard and a hypodermic needle, then, with the help of a file, I made a partial cut in the middle, to represent the articulated axle. Besides, I had to sand the landing gear legs to give a thinner and aerodynamic shape.


Guns

The Sopwith Strutter was armed with the standard set of a forward firing Vickers gun (for the pilot) over the engine, and a Lewis gun on a Scarff ring mount for the observer/gunner in the rear. The guns and white metal mount supplied with the kit, couldn’t be used since they came deformed and poorly detailed (apart from their coarse aspect), so, to replace the Vickers, I used the one from Copper State, the Scarff mount with the one from Aeroclub, and the Lewis from Fotocut.

The Vickers offered nearly no problems, though I added several parts such as the ammunition feeder and windshield to get it more detailed. This last one has a quilted protection covered with leather to prevent the pilot from hurting in case of hitting against it. The windshield was scratchbuilt from plasticard and acetate.

 

 

As for the Lewis, the Fotocut set is a kit in itself comprising 17 parts; the problem is that this set only supplies the mechanism box and sights while the barrel, cooling jacket, etc had to be built.

 

 

The “Scarff” ring mount was also detailed. I replaced the “U” support supplied by Aeroclub with one I scratchbuilt from 0,3m bronze wire to which I added the pulleys and bungee cord.

 


Paint and markings

As the kit doesn’t provide decals, you’ll have to manage to accomplish the version you choose. Luckily, some companies such as Blue Raider or Pegasus supply the basics to achieve any version, at least regarding the British aircraft. The deciding factors at the time of choosing my version, were finally the decals I had to hand, and the available reference pictures of this airplane. The WWI aircraft have particular features as the rear view mirrors, type of gun mounts, eolic generators, etc. These features are exclusive to each aircraft, and it’s difficult to find two equal ones, so, it’s always advisable to build a subject from which you can have references pictures that help you get a faithful replica of the real thing.

 

 

I chose to represent a fighter of the 43 Squadron Royal Flying Corps with the standard camouflage scheme, this means painted with the colors used on the West front: PC10 (Pigmented cellulose 10) and varnished linen that gave a yellowish tone.

 

 

The model was painted with Model Master enamels paints. For the PC10, I used ANA 613 Olive Drab while for the linen color ANA 616 Sand. But before applying the camouflage colors; I painted white, the fuselage sides where I would paint later the tactical markings and patrol identifications which were handpainted using also handmade templates. For the metal parts, I used Model Master Aluminum Plate (buffing).

For the badges, I used the Blue Raider decal sheet (BR505) for the national insignias (except for the rudder which was painted), but perhaps I should have painted them, since the white of these is different to the “white” of the painted markings. Anyway, I realized that too late.

 

For the serial, I used the WWI serials from Pegasus. I had to put number by number, applying first the white ones and then, over them, the black ones so as to leave visible the white edge typical of the British aircraft from that period.


Simulating the wooden parts

To simulate real wood is one of the biggest challenges the modeler has to face when building WWI models. It’s very difficult to get not only the proper color but also the streaks. I tried several methods until getting good results. Let’s see first of all, you should be sure about the kind of wood you like to simulate, thus you will have to investigate the specific type of wood the part you are going to paint, was built in; usually, European manufacturers used walnut, mahogany and to a lesser extent, oak. Once the type of wood was decided, you have to choose the propertint, which can be purchased at any hardware store. In my case, I tried to represent walnut. I proceeded to paint the parts in a light sand color, used Model Master ANA616 Sand that will also act as base. Then, applied a couple of layers of acrylic varnish which will act as base protection. Note, that it’s very important to let the parts drying for at least 3 or 4 days. Next, the tint was drybrushed with a hard bristle brush trying to simulate the “streaks”. It’s not so easy, the more you practice, the better your results will be. This technique was used for the propeller, wing struts and tail skid.

 


Final touches

I left to place at the end of the work all those fragile parts such as the wing, elevator and rudder control horns; guns (Vickers and Lewis on its Scarff mount); the Fotocut pitot tube with its wire, the first one was placed on the strut of the left wing and the second, on the upper wing leading edge, propeller and tail skid. Finally, the fuel pump’s wind generator generator made entirely from scratch was glued on the fuselage struts.

 

 

Then, I started with the rigging, previously I had made de 0,3 mm holes on the wings, stabilizers and fuselage to install each of the wires(Foto.092;093 For the rigs, and due to the weighty upper wing, I had to use 0,1 mm plastic thread to give strength to the whole.

 


Conclusion

This kit was a little complicated but not impossible to accomplish. It took me about 4 months work to finish, but this was not the worst… a couple of months later once I had it finished, Roden from Ukraine, released several 1/48 Sopwith Strutter excellent kits not only single but also two seat versions. Obviously, my Tom’s kit became obsolete. However, I don’t regret building it, meant a good exercise since I had never tackled this kind of kits. Hope you’ve liked it!!
 


Little of history

Designed by the famous Sopwith Aviation Company (headed by Sir Thomas Sopwith) originally for service with the RNAS (Royal Naval Air Service), the Sopwith 1 1/2 Strutter was so nicknamed because each of the upper wings were connected to the fuselage by a pair of short (half) struts and a pair of longer struts. It was the first British fighter with a synchronized forward firing Vickers machine.

The prototype two-seater flew in December 1915 and production deliveries started to reach the RNAS in February 1916. The War Office had ordered the type for the RFC at the same time, but because Sopwiths were contracted to the Navy for their entire production, the RFC orders had to be placed with Ruston Proctor and Vickers, and production from these manufacturers did not get into its stride until August. Since the Somme offensive was planned for the end of June, and the type was far more urgently required by the RFC than by the RNAS the situation was clearly farcical, and in the event some aircraft had to be transferred from one service to the other - allowing No. 70 squadron to reach the front by early July 1916, with Sopwith-built strutters originally intended for the navy.

At first No. 70 did very well with their new mounts. The period of German ascendancy known as the Fokker scourge was long over, and the 1½ Strutter's long range, coupled with its excellent armament for the period - enabled effective offensive patrolling well into German held territory. Unfortunately, by the time No. 45 Squadron reached the front in October the new Albatros fighters were appearing in the Jagdstaffeln. By January 1917, when No 43 Squadron, arrived in France the type was totally outclassed as a fighter, although it was still a useful long-range reconnaissance aircraft. Like most early Sopwith types, the 1½ Strutter was very lightly built, and its structure did not stand up very well to arduous war service. It was also far too stable to make a good dogfighter. The last front line 1½ Strutters in the RFC were replaced by Camels in late October 1917.

Around 1,500 1½ Strutters were built for the Royal Flying Corps and the Royal Naval Air Service, and between 4,200 and 4,500 were built in France.

The Strutter enjoyed a long career and production not only in England but in France where over 4500 of different variants were manufactured against the 1300 in Great Britain. The last French Sopwiths were not replaced by later types until early 1918.

Apart from these two countries, there were other users of the 1 1/2 Strutters such as USA, Russia, Japan, Latvia, Belgium and Romania

But perhaps the most important thing about this aircraft, is the high technological advances in the design at the same time of being the father of a long and successful fighter series of the Sopwith such as the Triplane, the Pup and the Camel.


Bibliography

Winsock Datafile 34; The Sopwith 1 1/2 Strutter, J M Bruce, 1996.

Winsock Datafile 80; The Sopwith 1 1/2 Strutter, J M Bruce, 2000.

Windsock Special; WWI British aeroplane colours and markings, Bruce Robertson, 1996.

Windsock Mini Datafile 6; Vickers Guns, Harry Woodman, 1996.

Windsock Mini Datafile 3; Lewis Guns, Harry Woodman, 1995.


Big size photos are only available in our PDF format.


Support us ordering our notes in PDF > Here


Comment in Facebook



MODELERSITE.COM takes no responsibility and assumes no liability for any content posted by users or any third party and they will be liable for any damages of any kind, including, but not limited to direct, indirect, incidental, punitive, and consequential damages.


Subscribe our Newsletter


LATEST NEWS


Editorials

Editorial

December 2016 Over the end of the year, we are offering a preview of the articles we were proud to have during 2016. Enjoy them and happy new year.




Showcases

By Modeler Site

Problems downloading files

By Mario Covalski

Realistic wire wheels for 1/12 scale motorcycles One of the biggest challenges for a modeler who builds motorcycles in 1/12 scale, is to modify a wire wheel and make it look realistic; specially without having to buy an aftermarket kit. Anyway, there are no kits for this kind of modification (except for one of the Acu-stion for the Tamiya XV1600 kit), so it's not possible to get one. So any modeler attempting to do this task must rely in his/her ability in order, to get a good result.

By Mario Covalski

Improving the Dragon Schwimmwagen - 1/6 scale #75013 Being a car fan, everything that has wheels attracts my attention, nevertheless, the Kubelwagen’s amphibious sibling, went unnoticed by me for quite a long time. After building the 1/6 Dragon Kubel, I was pretty excited with the Schwimmwagen, and the quality of the kit and improvements Dragon introduced a couple of years after the Kubel release, really surprised me. This article aims at offering my view about this kit construction, adding some improvements I considered necessary so as to make a worthy scale model.

By Gary Wickham

Advanced techniques: Building the P-51D Mustang "Lt Col John Myers" Petie 3rd Dragon 1/32 scale The infamous Dragon P-51D in 1/32. This model was started before Tamiya announced their kit, and I have to admit that during this build I did consider scrapping it more than once. In the end, I am very glad I did not. Despite the challenges and limitations of this kit, I am very happy (and proud) of the end result.

By Edwing E. Merlo Paredes

Building the Mini Cooper S Countryman, a guide for beginners Hasegawa #24121 - 1/24 scale The aim of this article is to give the reader a detailed and comprehensive guide. Here you’ll have typical indications for the most experienced modelers but very useful for newcomers or for those about to take their first steps into scale model cars. In spite that this kit is simple, it’s very important to follow the instructions to avoid unexpected surprises. In spite that modelers use to skip or change the order in the instruction steps, I’ll build this kit as per instructions.

By Patricio Delfosse

Building the T-34/100 – from a T34/85 & scratch 1/35 scale The T-34 is one of the vehicles with longer operative life. Even, many are on service today in some third world countries, and until a few years ago, in Europe, they were seeing action in the former Yugoslavia. Among all the versions developed, this accomplished by the Egyptian, is the one that seems more attractive to me. In the ‘70s with the surplus of T-34 chassis, surpassed by more modern tanks, they decided to mount the Soviet 100mm BS-3 gun...

By Mario Covalski

Building the M36B1 tank destroyer 1/16 scale R/C The M36B1 was a mix of the M36 Jackson turret with its 90mm cannon, that would be used later in the Pershing, and a M4A3 Sherman chassis. This vehicle was in response to Americans to be able to face in better conditions the big German tanks during WWII. It was not a tank in the strict meaning of the word since it served as tank killer, however, in the pictures of that period, they can be seen as infantry support tanks. This article aims at sharing with you my experience building a 1/16 M36B1 R/C.

By Mario Covalski

Tamiya Caterhams, a step by step guide for novices 1/12 scale The first Catherham from Tamiya coming to my hands at the end of 1994, was the “Cycle Fender Special” (10202), since the “Super Seven BDR was out of stock, and it was impossible for me to get it from the stores I used to buy kits. From that moment on, my affair with which, I think is the best scale car kit ever produced, began. And here my comment: probably, you have seen better detailed kits, or even superb models limited editions.

By Mario Covalski

Building the Kawasaki Z750 Police from Tamiya / Aoshima kits - 1/12 scale In 1976 Kawasaki launched the model Z750, a smaller sister to the Z900, adapted to the requirements of the Japanese market. To my knowledge, the Z900 was an improved copy of the Honda CB750Four and, as it was common to Japanese manufacturers, each new model included several versions in order to cover the requirements of the Japanese police. This model was inspired in a small picture from the '70 decades. the picture was showing a Z750 model, perhaps a 1978 version, for the police, with the color and characteristics of the Japanese Police.

By Claudio Kalicinski

Scratchbuilding the Nieuport 6H, 1/48 scale I decided to scratchbuild this plane after seeing the scale drawings by Mike Fletcher in his web site: The Nieuport Pages. I sent an E-mail to him and he kindly sent me pictures and larger resolution scale drawings. Once I enlarged the plans to 1/48, I noticed how big the plane was....

By Patricio Delfosse

Building the KV-220 from scratch / Trumpeter kit 1/35 scale The aim of this article is to share with the reader the work accomplished some years ago to build a model of a Russian tank KV-220 of the WWII. The modeler psyche is at times, curious, being so many kits available, some day we say “this is the model I want to have!” either because we saw pictures or read something about it in a book, a message in a forum... etc. No matter how, the only way to have it, is to get down to work, and I did so.

By Patricio Delfosse

Detailing and weathering the JSU-122 Dragon #6013 1/35 scale This note aims at showing the corrections made from scratch, as well as pointing out the necessary modifications to include the Eduard's improvement set to the kit. Also, I focused on the painting aspects to get a weathered effect.

By Mario Covalski

Building the M4A1E8 Sherman IDF service RC 1:16 scale My liking for the Sherman started 25 years ago when I built the first version of the Tamiya M4 RC kit. In 2007, I decided to build all the versions, at least the available kits. At that moment I realized that to speak about the Sherman, you have to know a lot about it, and that is almost impossible to build all the versions. On the other hand, I found that I didn’t feel comfortable building in 1/35 scale, so, I left the project aside. Anyway, I went on reading and learning about Shermans, mainly the Israeli versions, just to check the little I know and the great many variants that are nearly impossible to list.

By Denis R.S.Bomfim

Building rusted cars - VW 1966 - 1/24 scale It all started with a joke, I built a rusted Mustang GT 350 to make a gift to a friend who only builds Mustangs. It was at a modelers meeting when he received a homage and the joke consisted of letting him know the arduous remodeling and restoration work he would have with this rusted Mustang. I took advantage of my work and presented it in a contest that took place in Campinas city. Finally, the model was “best of the show” and they called me mad for giving a winning model. My answer was.... I will have to make another rusted model for me.

By Claudio Kalicinski

Building the Lindberg Curtiss JN-4D Jenny 1/48 scale The machine I decided to depict was a Curtiss JN-4D trainer based at Love Field, Texas during 1918. A picture of this plane can be found at the Profile Publications book about the Curtiss JN.

By Mario Covalski

Building 1/12 F1 resin model kits: A step by step guide for novices This article aims at offering an illustrated guide, with pictures, explaining step by step the tasks that should be done, how to and the reasons, it’s basically a visual guide, based on the construction of two MG models: the 2002 Ferrari and the 2003- GA.

By Patricio Delfosse

Painting wheels in five steps

By Rick & Jannine Bennett

Learning to paint figures step by step

By Jose Antonio Solbes

How to paint with lacquers

By Mario Covalski

Building the IDF M50 radio controled Sherman 1/16 scale Building the M50 in 1/16 scale is a project I have had in mind for many years, and after the M51s (from the article published in May 2012) I felt the need to continue with this one. In this article, I’ll share with the reader my experience in building the M50 RC 1/16 from a Tamiya M4 -105mm with HVSS suspension.

By Mario Covalski

Building an accurate M51 Isherman from the Tamiya RC kit 1/16 scale There were many versions of the Sherman, however, the last modification the Israelis made on them, is to my liking, the most showy and the one that converted a WWII tank into one of the 60 and 70 decades. I’ll not extend in describing the history of the M51, there’s a lot of information in books and internet, just enough to say that, as well as the M50, there were so many variants, that it’s recommended to build one tank in particular if you look for historical accuracy. As is my custom….I didn’t do so and just made generic versions that could have really existed. The aim of this article is to share with the reader the 250 hours of work to convert the erroneous Tamiya 1/16 RC kit into two acceptable M51. This is not an article for you to copy exactly what I did, but it may give you ideas of how to or get the basic things you need to build two versions of the M51.

By Pablo Raggi

Scratchbuilding the IDF Leyland Contractor - 1/35 scale I always liked the transport vehicles especially the IDF transport trucks. When I got the Leyland blueprint and knowing it was difficult that a manufacturer of plastic kits made a release, I thought it was time to build it from scratch. Though it’s not easy to copy a scratchbuilt work, this article aims at sharing with readers the work accomplished, encouraging them to face the process of building a scale model "from scratch".

By Mario Covalski

How to build a model There are a lot of plastic models manufacturers, whose instruction manuals are clear and well structured. However, there are others quite complicated in their sequential steps, making the building a real nightmare for the beginner. This happens even with the more experienced companies. From our personal point of view, the least explicit manuals are those by some American companies (AMT, ERTL, Revell and Lindbergh) because, in most cases, they don't even include a color guide. Some of the most prestigious companies have well illustrated manuals with an excellent information, although they have a certain difficulty in the building process, making the sequence difficult to follow.  

By Mario Covalski

Improving the Dragon Kubelwagen 1/6 scale # 75003 Action figure collecting is one of the most popular hobbies in the world. Figures made out of different plastic materials based on TV sci-fi series, sci-fi movies (for instance GI Joe action figures) and facts from real life such as the representation of different war scenarios. Soldier figures are commonly made in 1/6 scale, they’re represented with military uniforms made from genuine fabric and the weapons that real soldiers use to have, vehicles included.

By Eduardo Andreoli

Scratchbuilding military vehicles - Ford C11 ADF - 1/35 scale The art of starting a model or project from scratch, is almost literally, the art of building from the bottom up. This is really exciting. Often a desired model is unavailable in some scale or entirely non-existent. Sometimes the hobbyist may be dissatisfied with the accuracy or detail of kits that are available. Other times a hobbyist will opt to scratchbuild simply for the challenge, which gives us the opportunity to give free rein to our imagination to solve problems of construction and once finished to complete our collection with a singular piece. My intention through this article is to share with you several tips of the scratchbuilding world and the way I solve the difficulties I have to face, in this case building the Ford C11 ADF.