Building the Ferrari 275P from a Monogram slot kit

1/24 scale

by Rene Espinosa © 2012 Modeler Site

Legal Notice

No material from Modeler Site any Web site owned, operated, licensed, or controlled by Damian Covalski may be copied, reproduced, republished, uploaded, posted, transmitted, or distributed in any way, except that you may download one copy of the materials on any single computer for your personal, non-commercial home use only, provided you keep intact all copyright and other proprietary notices. Modification of the materials or use of the materials for any other purpose is a violation of Damian Covalski's copyright and other proprietary rights.

Read More here > Legal notice

One of the most rewarding aspects of modeling is the possibility of building our favourite cars, unfortunately not always available in kit form; this presents the extraordinary opportunity to use some existing kits or parts of to modify or build the car of our choice.


When it comes to competition cars, those kits intended for Slot Racing offer an interesting variety, its configuration is basically a body intended to be mounted on the chassis of the specialty, and these bodies are generally the correct proportions with an appropriate level of detail.

As an fan to the brand he wanted to build a model of the Ferrari 275 P, competition prototype, introduced in 1964, that won Sebring and Le Mans, the car is part of the series Ferrari 200 and is derived from the famous 250 Testa Rossa; its main feature is the use of the Ferrari’s preferred engine the Colombo V12 .

Ferrari Colombo V12 engines are wonderful aesthetic pieces, so with the engine of a Ferrari 250 GTO, of a Revell Kit, I decided to adapt it to the Ferrari 275 P; Although the 275 engine was an evolution of the previous engine, changes were made in the mechanical attributes of the engine (increase of valves, changes in displacement etc.), while externally they are virtually identical.

The modification of the model of the 275P involves modifying the engine to add the correct gearbox, the rear axles; reproduce the visible part of the tubular chassis of these cars, the rear fenders and the mechanical detail visible.

Armed with styrene plate and tube and some reference photographs I began to reproduce the above-mentioned elements.


In addition, and given that the kit came with a casting defect I had to build the missing part of the pilot seat, visible repair in the previous picture.

For the construction of the suspension I turned to the "box of leftovers" use the "A" arms of another old kit, and scratch built with styrene tube the shock absorbers and the springs with wire.


Thus achieved a chassis quite realistic.

On the other hand, the inclusion of the engine also carries the modification of the body, starting with the opening of the hood; for greater realism I decided to open the doors and the front hood and add a strip of styrene which completes the bodywork.

I also added the "lip" of the windshield and doors, detail that omits the kit and reproduced the rivets that held the windshield and side glass, with the use of Cyanoacrylate droplets applied with a sewing needle.


Once completed the bodywork modifications, after sanding and washing it, I applied the primer, in this case for automotive paint.

The bodywork with the first coat of paint, that latter will be sanded and polished.

Then started with the details of the suspension, first the front, , also of “the surplus fund “ I took “A” arms and discs of the kit of Ferrari 250 GT0, amending in order to use Hasegawa photo etched wheels, designed for the Kit of Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa. Also added brake lines.

The discs and “A”arms already installed in the chassis.

For the rear suspension I also used “A” arms and discs from “leftovers" box, as well as, rear axles which should be adjusted to fit the chassis.

For this it was necessary to temporarily mount the engine to the chassis to take the necessary measurements for the adaptation. The engine finally installed, it was necessary to cut each axis in three millimetres, and then proceeded to paint them.

The wheels installed temporarily, the shift lever made of a pin, and the selector plate from the Revell kit. One of the visible tanks, scratch built with tube and sheet styrene.

Once completed the modifications to the chassis, I started with the interiors, dashboard panel, as it is to be expected in a competition car is very simple, the kit comes only with instrument decals, so I decided to improve some details.

I drilled the instruments and use shrink tube to do the bevels; fitting the decals more deeply gives greater realism to the dashboard.

On the sides I added panels of styrene, which are now visible when you open the doors.


The steering wheel in the original kit comes to close to the dashboard, what is wrong, so I corrected it adding a small piece of styrene tube.

The steering wheel already painted with Alclad aluminum and to simulate wood, a mixture of transparent orange and smoke from Tamiya.

As mentioned, the engine was taken from a Kit thus it was already assembled and wired, for this project I simply cutted the original gearbox and glued in place a new gearbox with transaxles, also taken from the "leftovers box".

Now that the engine is going to be more visible, I decided also improve the engine details, for which I made the Carburettors induction tubes from aluminium, as shown in the previous picture.

I started drilling the inner diameter of the tube to reduce its thickness to facilitate its modification. Then with a drill bit slightly higher than the tube diameter I bored the edge to replicate the form of induction tubes.

The result is quite realistic, as it can be seen.

For the headers I used parts of the Revell kit and scratchbuilt silencers and pipes, from styrene tube.

The headers already glued and the first coat of paint.

The headers already placed on the rolling chassis.

The body already glued to chassis, with dashboard in place.

The steering wheel in place.

During the final polishing of the windshield I fractured it, so I decided to make another more realistic from PET, so I made a mold out of dentist plaster using as a model the original windshield, latter on checking the photographic reference I discovered that the windshield lateral supports are to short, so I made new ones out of styrene strips.

The windshield with its correct size lateral supports in place. That done I started decoration using the kits decals and a windshield wiper made out of two old wipers from other kits. Lastly I waxed the model, this is the end result, hope you like it.

Support us ordering our notes in PDF > Here