Formula one

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Brabham BT44, Tamiya 1/12 scale A "step by step" for newcomers

by Mario Covalski © 2003

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Among the articles I had in mind to write about, there was one that headed my list, and without any doubt, It was about the Brabham BT44. By the end of my youth, I saw this beautiful, simple and successful car, running in Buenos Aires, driven by Carlos Reutemann, one of the most expert F1 drivers of the last 30 years.


The BT44 was one of my first Tamiya F1 kits. I built one in 1978, another in 1991, and the third and last one in 1998, which is still well preserved in my showcase. Actually, this note is entirely devoted to it. It's one of the most valued models in Argentina, since Reutemann was as well as Juan Manuel Fangio, a beloved and admiring driver. Really believe me, I've never felt so joyful as when Reutemann drove his first Ferrari (312T2 in 1976).

Besides, this model was the cover subject of Modeler Site in April 2000, but only with a gallery, so I was in debt not only with my remembrance but also with my model.
As the kit was constructed several years ago, and my vision of how to build a F1 kit was quite different, I'll take advantage of the opportunity to write a note specially to novices, who I guess, will receive it with pleasure.
The purpose of this note is to show simple guidelines following the instruction manual steps, recommending some details that can be applied to improve even more the original Tamiya kit.

 

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About the kit

Speaking about a well known kit, there's nothing new to say about, except that it's a great exponent of the 70s technology with incredible details and that I would like to have time (and skill) to develop a not expensive PE set with some parts I consider, would be interesting to replace.
In spite of this, built out of the box, it looks impressive and captures the aggressiveness and the thoroughbred pedigree it was.
Those skillful modelers, will find much fun, being able to add details and to improve some parts, but essentially it's excellent and convincing.


Step by Step

Step 1

Parts E13, E14 and E15 don't have to be glued completely, 1mm should have to be left (as the image shows) to make the placement of K7 and K8 easier.

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Step 2

As in the actual car, D31 may be drilled to get more realism, my advice is not to do the same with D27,28,29 and 30.

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Step 3

The steering box could be replaced with the system I used in the Yardley (it really looks more real).

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This note is offered in PDF format to be read or printed using Acrobat reader, contact our webmaster > Here

Includes more than 76 pics, here we show only the text pages.

 

Esta Nota es ofrecida en formato PDF, el cual puede ser leído o impreso usando el Acrobat reader, contacte a nuestro webmaster > Aquí

Incluye más de 76 imágenes, aquí solo mostramos las paginas de texto.

 

     
   
     
   

Big size photos are only available in our PDF format.


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